Leno-weaving.



T. GRIME.

LENO WEAVING.

APPLIUATION FILED MAY 2a, 1913.

1,095,176. Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

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T. GRIME.

LENO WEAVING.

APYLIUATION FILED MAY 29, 1913.

Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

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LENO WBAVING.

APPLIOATION rum] MAY 29, 1913.

Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

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T. GRIME.

LBNO WBAVING.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 29, 1913.

1,095,176, Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

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T. GRIME. LBNO WBAYING. APPLICATION rum) MAY 29, 1913.

1,095,176. Patented Apr 28, 1914.

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WITPIEEEES: A: U J4; aw Pl g T M Q M I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS GBIME, OF NEW BEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO NASHAWENA MILLS, OF NEW BEDFORD, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

LENO-W EAVING.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 28, 1914.

T 0 all whom it may concern Be it known that I, THOMAS GRIME, a citizen of the United States of America, residing at New Bedford, in the count of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, ve made a new Invention in What is Known as Leno-Weaving, of which the following is a. specification.

The invention relates to mechanism for producing ornamental figures or patterns in what is commonly known as leno weaving, particularly what is called filling-leno effects, that is, weaving in which the filling threads are manipulated by. crossing two or more of them over others or binding them together by special warp-threads in spaces or stripes, in the fabric, from which the warp-threads other than these special binding warps are omitted.

Heretofore ornamental leno Weaving has been produced by the operation of the heddles of a loom upon the warp-threads, including what are known as doup heddles, as also by means of hooks operated by similar mechanism to that used for operating the heddles. In this manner the warp-threads have been crossed over one another and manipulated in various ways; but never heretofore, so far as I can ascertain, have ornamental effects been produced by operating upon the weft or filling threads, except in some instances where a warp-thread has been interlaced with the filling threads by hand.

My invention for this purpose consists in mechanical instrumentalities by which a special weft-binding warp-thread that passes from the back to the front of the loom is drawn into a loop through the reed, so that the forward bight of the loop is held in a position in advance of the fell of the web of cloth, and the rearward bight of the loop back of the reed by devices which receive and hold such special warp-thread and release it when it is drawn back to bind the weft threads together; these holding devices also being adapted to be reciprocated vertically so as to change the relative positions of the threads constituting the sides of the loop to form difl'erent sheds for groups of filling threads; and further consists in means for reciprocating horizontally the said forward bight holder, and drawing back the said special warp and varying the tension thereon.

A concrete embodiment of such mechanical instrumentalities is illustrated in the drawings, as embracing a horizontally reciprocating cord or wire extending from the front to the back of the loom through the reed, and provided with a short loop or eye; a special weft-binding warpthread supported by said eye, and by which it is drawn forward into a loop by the reciprocating cord; specially constructed holding heddles back of the reed, adapted to engage and hold such warp-thread and at the required time to release it, by which means such warp is manipulated so as to be drawn forward in a loop by the eye of the reciprocating holder and through the reed, with a bight of the loop in the said eye, until such bight occupies a position in front of the fell of the web of the fabric, or in front of the forward limit of the throw of the lay, and with another bight of the loop of the said binding warp in one of the said holding heddles, one or the other of which holds the rear bight of the loop of said warp when said holding heddles are shifted to vary the shed formed by the sides of the loop of the binding warp and in which the desired number of picks of filling are laid; after which the said cord and looping eye are drawn back through the reed, the binding warp is released from the holding heddles, and by means of a reciprocating war presser or tightening mechanism it is stralghtened and drawn back taut, by which operation the portions of the fillin threads previously laid in the different s eds of the loop are crossed over one another or bound together in accordance with the manner in which the shed was formed by the ecial warp. Further, by means of a guiding heddle through which the reciprocating warpholder and special warp pass, the Warp is guided into slots of the holding heddles and locked therein and is then again drawn forward in a loop, by the eye of said warpholder, and the described operation is repeated.

As above stated, the warp-carrier and looper is illustrated as a cord with an attached eye for supporting the special warpthread, a cord being convenient and inexpensive as to form and material, but a metal Wire or strip, or other available device which may be adapted to support such warpthreads and to be reciprocated through the loom reed dents and heddles may be employed in place of the cord and serve all of its functions in this invention.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a. side elevation of a dobby loom, with the parts which extend across the machine, in section, and with the special warp-thread drawn back taut. Fig. 2 is a. side elevation showing the special warp drawn forward in a loop, to its extreme position in front of the reed. Fig. is a side elevation showing the hight of the loop held by its forward holder with the guiding heddle raised, to open the shed between the two upper arts of the loop and the first portion of filling threads f laid therein. Fig. t a side elevation showing the forward hight of the loop in the same position but with the holder for the rearward bight of the loop raised so as to change the relative positions of the parts of the loop and form a different shed in which the second portion of filling is laid. This may be designated the first figure or weave, and when the special warp has been drawn back and the loop released from its rearward holders the two portions of filling which have been laid in different sheds of the loop will be drawn across one another as shown in Fig. 5. Fig. 6 is a side elevation showing the position of the rearward hight holder in the reversed position to that shown in Fig. 4; that is, the first one up and the second one down, by which means a complete or closed loop is formed, and all of the filling threads which it is desired to bind together are laid within the loop, and when the forward bight holder and the special warp is drawn back and the warp released from the rearward holders, all of the filling threads laid within the loop are drawn together as shown in Fig. 7. This may be designated the second figure or weave. Fig. 8 shows another or third weave, which is a modification of that produced by the operation illustrated in Figs. 6 and 4, that is, a fewer number of filling threads are laid in the shed shown in Fig. 6, for instance two or three threads, and then the shed of the loop is changed to that shown in Fig. 4, and two or three filling threads laid therein; the shed of the loop is then changed to that shown in Fig. 6 again, for a few picks of filling, then again changed to the Fig. 41 position for a few more picks, and so on, reversing the position of the threads of the loop until the desired number of filling threads, for example, twelve, have been interlaced with the special warp, finishing with the position shown in Fig. 6, when it is drawn back as in other cases and pro duces an effect similar to that shown in Fig. 8, which may be called the third weave. Fig. 9 is a front elevation of a portion of the loom, showing the vertically reciprocating devices with notches or slots and locking rods, which may be designated rearward loop bight holders Fig. 10 is a cross section of such rearward loop holder on line 10-10, Fig. 9; and Fig. 11 is a front elevation of the rear guiding heddle shown in side elevation in Figs. 2, 3, 4 and 6. Fig. 12 illustrates the arrangement of single reciprocating cords, for carrying the loophight holder, and a. single cord attached to the slackening bar for operating the loop holder cord, when in the position shown in Fig. 2 for example; Fig. 13 shows the same parts when in the position shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 14: is an elevation of a part of the loom frame, with the cam, cam-follower, filling fork, and the cord extending from the rainfollower to a bell-crank lever which is operated by the dohby, also a sectional elevation of the shuttle box in proper position in relation to the loom frame; Fig. 15 is an enlarged sectional elevation of the shuttle box, and wedge holding out one of the shottle binders; Fig. 1G is a side elevation of a two cell shuttle box, with the spring shuttle binders.

A single weft-binding warp-thread, and forward and rearward bight holder is referred to in the above description, but any desired number may be employed according to the ornamental figures required. In Fig. 9, rearward bight holders are shown for six special warp-threads, but each is merely a duplicate of the first.

This invention may be employed in a Jacquard or dobby loom, but in the drawings it is shown embodied in the latter form as more simple and convenient.

Referring to the drawings by designating characters, A is the base frame of the loom having two upright standard frame portions B and B, the former for supporting the harnesses and the mechanism for operating them and the latter for supporting the special warp beam, and mechanism for reciprocating the special warp holder and operating the warp slackener and tightcner.

Numeral 1 is the special warp. led from the beam 2 around a whip-roll 3, thence through a guiding hole in the reciprocating bar or warp-presser 4, serving also as a slackener and tightener for said warp 1. which then passes around the usual slackcner rod 5 and forward through an eye of a guide heddle 6, thence through the horizontally reciprocating warp loop-hight holder .loop-bight holder 7, which may be called the forward bight holder, and as shown in F igs. 1 to 6, it is a continuous or closed loop passing around sheaves or grooved pulleys 14,

15, but instead of the continuous loop, a single cord, as 13, may be used with its ends wound upon pulleys, as 14 and 15 respectively, each of which is given rotary reciprocation by means of the swinging bar 4, to which a cord 13 is attached and wound upon pulleys 14 15", in a direction opposite to that of cord 13 on pulleys 14, 15. All of the pulleys 14, 14", are keyed to the same shaft 40, and pulleys 15", 15 to another shaft 41, so that when the arm 4 is moved in a direction to unwind the cord from pulley 14* it will wind up the cord on 14", and vice versa. This cord 13 passes through the upper eye 6 of heddle 6 (see front view Fig. 11), between other heddles and holders in the loom, through a dent in the reed 10 and around the forward pulley 15. From the slackeners and tighteners 4 and 5 the warp 1 passes through the lower elye e of the guide heddle 6, then through s ots 19 in the vertically reciprocating holders 8 and 9, which may be called rearward loop-bi ht holders, in which slots the warp is held y locks or latches 20, thence through a reel dent and bight holder 7, and is thereby formed into a loop in which filling threads are laid at the same time that they are woven into the fabric. The latches 20, which as shown are vertically reciprocating wires operated by supplemental heddles 18, are held in guides 21, secured to these special heddles 8, 9, (see Fig. 10). The bar 4 is moved forward and backward by means of the crank lever 22, which is operated by straps 24, 24 connected through bell-crank levers 25, 26, to the dobby mechanism in the usual manner, so that the lever 22 is moved positively in both directions, and as the upper portion of the continuous cord 13 is attached to the said bar 4, when that is moved backward or to the right in Fig. 1, the lower portion of the cord will be moved forward and the bight holder 7 being secured to the lower portion of the cord it will be drawn forward between heddles and through the reed, carrying a warp loop to the position shown in Fig. 2. The guide heddle 6 is then raised, thus lifting the upper thread of the loop and forming a special shed in which filling threads are laid as shown in Fig. 3. In order to produce the pattern illustrated in Fig. 5 with one group of filling threads crossed over another, the vertically reciproeating bight holder 8 is raised, thus forming a shed with the middle thread of the loop above, under which a group of filling threads is laid, as shown in Fig. 4:. The three heddles 6, 8, 9, are then brought to the same level, the bar 4 is swung forward by the operation of crank lever 25, and by means of the connection of the lever 23 through the bell-crank lever 28 with the dobby mechanism the bar 5 is swung backward, the operation of these two bars thus drawing back the looper 7 and at the same time straightening out the loop and drawing the warp l, taut, by which the two groups of threads laid as shown in Fig. 4 are crossed over one another as shown in Fig. 5. The lever 23 has a yielding connection by a spring and wire 29 with a fixed pin or hook below it secured to the loom frame, or to the floor, not shown. Just before. the warp 1 is drawn back to straighten out the loop, the locking devices 20 are raised so that the warp is released from the slots 19, and may be drawn about the interlaced filling threads. As soon as the warp-thread is drawn taut, the eye 6' of the heddle 6, being located near the edge toward the holders 8 and 9 on the respective sides of the harnesses, that is at the right hand edge thereof as shown in Fig. 11, will push the warp-thread into the slot 19, and the lock 20 will be pushed down lily the supplementary heddle 18 and hold t e rear bight of the Warp loop in place when the next loop is formed by the holder 7. At the same time the two portions of the cord 13 passing through the eye 6 on the outer edge of the heddle 6, will be held away from the slots 19 in the heddle 8 and 9. During the operation of drawing back this special warp to straighten out the loop, and cross over or bind together the groups of filling threads laid therein, and of drawing forward a new loop, the cam-follower 31 which operates the filling fork 33 is held up from the cam 32 for two picks, by the operation of bell-crank levers 30 also operated by the dobby, and during this time the shuttle is arrested or the shed remains open in the usual manner, so that no filling thread is laid therein, and while this is taking place in a loom with two or more shuttle boxes, means such as a wed e 36 behind the spring binder 35 are provi ed to hold the shuttle binder 35 open, or at its extreme outward position, so as to hold the finger out and prevent the dagger from engaging the knockofl' 3'5 and thus releasing the shipper and stopping the loom.

A two box loom is shown in Fig. 15, and for the purposes of producing the filling leno weave described, only the lower box contains a shuttle, and when this is dropped during two picks, the wedge 36 which is continually in place, holds the shuttle binder of the upper box open, so that the above described operation takes place and no filling threads are laid in the shed.

When it is desired simply to draw a loop of the warp-thread around a group of filling threads; after a loop has been drawn forward, as in Fig. 2, the bight holder 9 is raised, as show-n in Fig. 6, thus forming a closed loop, the warp running from the heddle 6 to the forward bight holder 7 back through the slot 19 in the rearward bight holder 8, thence up through the slot 19 in the holder 9, and out through the reed. In the forward part of this loop the whole group of filling threads are laid, and when the warp is released from the holders 8 and 9, and drawn back straight, these filling threads will be bound together in the loop as shown in Fig. 7. Another figure or weave may be produced by alternating the position of the heddles 8 and 9, as shown in Figs. 6 and 4, but laying a smaller number of filling threads in each shed; for example, when the shed in the loop is as shown in Fig. 6, lay two filling threads therein, then shift to the )osition of Fig. 4 and lay two filling threads, then back to Fig. 6 for two picks, then to Fig. 4 again for two picks, and so on alternating until a group of the desired number of threads have been laid, finishing with the warp-threads in the posi tion shown in Fig. 6; then when the warp loo is released and drawn closely about the filling threads, they will be interlaced with one another and the whole bound together by the warp in a manner which will prevent slipping of the filling threads along the warp. This is illustrated in Fig. 8.

I claim:

1. In a loom for weaving ornamental filling-leno fabric, the combination with a special warp thread, of a horizontally reciprcr eating forward-bight holder of a warp loop, a rearward loopbight holder, an additional vertically reciprocating warp holder to effect changes in the relative positions of the sides of the loop between its extreme bights, and a reciprocating warp presser between the whip-roll and the said bight holders to reciprocate the forward bight holder, and to draw back the warp and engage the filling threads laid in the loop.

2. In a loom for Weaving ornamental filling-leno in combination with a special weftbinding warp, a horizontally reciprocating holder for the forward bight of a loop, vertically reciprocating rearward bight-holders for changing the relative positions of the sides of the loop between the forward and rearward holders to vary the shed formed thereby for the weft, an intermittently acting warp tension regulator, and a reciprocator for the forward bight holder.

3. In a loom for weaving ornamental filling-leno in combination with a special weftbinding warp, a horizontally reciprocating holder for the forward bight of a loop, vertically reciprocating rearward bight hold ers which change the relative positions of the sides of the loop, warp engaging slots in the holders and automatically operated locking devices to retain the warp therein, vertically reciprocating warp guides to withdraw the warps from and direct them into said slots, when the holder of the forward bight of the loop is reciprocated.

4. In a loom for weaving ornamental fill-- ing-leno in combination with a special weft interlocking warp, a horizontally reciprocating forward warp loop holder, rearward warp loop holders, mechanism to vertically reciprocate said rearward holders and change the relative positions of the threads constituting the sides of the loop, to form special sheds for picks of filling, and mechanism to draw back the forward loopholder, and the said warp, to bind or interlock the filling laid in the loop.

5. In a loom for weaving filling-lent), a horizontally reciprocating carrier for a special warp, a warp-looping eye on the carrier, a special weft-interlocking warp held by said eye, means to reciprocate the carrier, rear warp-loop holders, mechanism to vertically reciprocate the latter holders to change the relative positions of the threads constituting the sides of the loop, to form special sheds for picks of filling, means to draw back the carrier and said special warp to bind or interlock the filling laid in the loop, and mechanism to arrest picks of fill jug during this last named operation.

6. In a loom for weaving ornamental filling-leno, a reciprocating carrier for a s ecial warp, a warp-looping eye on the carrier, a special weft-interlocking warp passing through said eye, by which the warp is drawn into a loop with a front bight in advance of the fell of the main web when said carrier is drawn forward through the reed, special warp controllin heddles provided with warp-holding an releasing devices, and an auxiliary rear heddle to guide the reciprocating warp-carrier and special warp, and direct the iatter to the holding devices of the warp-controlling heddles.

7. In a loom for weaving ornamental filling-leno, mechanism for crossing or drawing together a desired number of filling threads, consisting of means to draw a special weft-binding warp-thread into a loop with a bight in front of, the lay, devices to engage and hold such warp in a bight behind the lay to assist in forming the forward bight and to raise and lower the threads of the several sections of the loop between such bights to form special sheds for the filling threads, means to draw back said special warp-thread to cross or bind together the filling threads laid Within the loop, and means to release said warp-thread from the holding devices when the warp is drawn back.

8. In a loom for weaving ornamental filling-leno, mechanism for crossing or binding together a desired number of filling threads; consisting of means to draw a special weft-binding warp-thread into a loop with a bight in front of the lay, devices to engage such warp and hold it in a bight behind the lay, means to lock the warp in such holding devices and thus to assist in forming the forward bight of said loop, such devices serving also to raise and lower the several threads of the loop to form special sheds for the filling threads, means to draw back said warp-thread to cross or bind together the filling threads laid within the sheds of the loops, and means to unlock the warp holding devices when the said warp-thread is to be drawn back.

9. In a loom for weaving filling-lent, a reciprocating warp looping cord which passes through the reed and the eyes of desired heddles, said cord being provided with a warp-guiding eye or loop, a weft-binding warp for each desired leno figure or pattern in the fabric, each of which warps passes through an eye and through the same reed dent and heddle as the said warp-looping cord, a slackener at the back of the loom with which said weft-binding warp engages, a special heddle for each of said weft-binding warp-threads, which latter heddle is adapted to release said warps when the eye on the warp-looping cord is drawn back and to engage and hold such warp when said looping cord is drawn forward through the reed and produces a loop which forms the special shed for the filling threads.

10. In a loom for weaving filling-leno, means for crossing or binding together a desired number of filling threads to form ornamental patterns in the fabric; consisting of a cord extending from the front to the back of the 100111 through the reed and desired heddles and provided with an eye for supporting and drawing a loop in a warpthread, means to reciprocate said cord, a device to vary the tension of the warpthread which passes through such eye, and special heddles which release said warp when drawn back, and engage and hold it when drawn forward by the reciprocating cord to make a bight in a loop to form a shed to receive the desired number of picks of filling threads.

11. In a loom for weaving filling-leno, means for crossing or drawing together a desired number of filling threads to form ornamental patterns in the fabric; consisting of a cord extending from the front to the back of the 100m, and provided with an eye for holding a bight of a loop in a warpthread to be interlocked with a desired number of filling threads, means to reciprocate said cord, a swinging bar provided with apertures, through which said warp-threat'l passes and by which such thread is slackencd and tightened to acconnnodate the reciprocation of said cord.

THOMAS GRIME.

Witnesses WM. B. GARDNER, JOHN L. BURTON.

It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,095,176, granted April 28,

1914:, upon the application of Thomas Grime, of New Bedford, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Leno-Weaving, an error appears in the printed specification requiring correction as follows: Page 3, line 26, for the word reel read reed;- and that the said Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the same may conform to the record of the case in the Patent Oflice.

Signed and sealed this 26th day of May, A. D., 1914.

[SEAL] 4 R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acting Commissioner of Patents. 

